The Confident Hiker

May 2025

We had just come back from our attempt at hiking the West Highland Way and were still feeling a bit disappointed and sad about leaving Scotland so much earlier than planned. Unlike any other time in the past, I didn’t feel like planning any hikes, let alone actually going out and doing one. A very foreign feeling that I didn’t particularly like. It was as if I lost my connection to nature and the exploring part in myself. Whenever I am not feeling good, I know that hiking and being outdoors generally brings me peace and perspective. And so I also knew that this disconnected feeling was something I wanted to overcome as soon as possible.

My mother had gifted me a journey to a “place of power” together with Sam for my birthday a couple of months ago and this seemed like the perfect time to redeem this gift. My research brought me to many beautiful places on the map and making a choice would prove difficult. But soon I realized that I was circling in on sites with a body of water.

I had heard and read about the Waterfall Arena Batöni and maybe I have even already visited in the past although I wouldn’t have any memory of it. Five waterfalls between 45 and 86 meters high, plunge down into the Batöni Basin. The hike, an out and back trail starting and ending in the village of Weisstannen, is considered a T2 trail, primarily because of its partially very steep climbs and less because of exposure or narrow trails. Like a natural guide, the river Gufelbach leads you through the valley, surrounded by tall mountain ranges on both sides.

The drive from home to Weisstannen was about two and a half hours and we left the house on an overcast Friday morning. At this point I was feeling already a bit of a pull to be outside again. To walk, explore new terrain, challenge myself; and to see the waterfalls. We parked the car at the outskirts of the small village and wrapped ourselves in layers of clothing, as this was not a particularly warm late May day.

Weisstannen is a small village with only few hundred residents remaining there, split into a Lower and Upper Village situated in the Weisstannen valley. It has a rich history and has been settled by Walser people, an Alemannic ethnic group in the Alpine region, as early as the 14th century. The valley is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Tectonic Arena Sardona” and is also home to one of the oldest hunting reserves, where the first ibex in Switzerland were reintroduced.

The trail started even and as an easy stroll along the calmly flowing stream but it didn’t take long for the climbing to begin. Ascending a steep gravel road, we hardly felt like talking and so we just kept smiling at each other, panting. Even though it was tiring and exhausting and I was desperately waiting to walk on a level path, even if just for a moment, I felt good being outside and on my feet. It was as if my blood started to flow through my body properly again. As if I was looking in the mirror and seeing myself again.

The rugged steep rock walls on each side of the valley were impressive, almost intimidating even. The bright green grass and the lush trees which lined the rocks were positively glowing against the grey of the stone and the moody sky. There was a quietness in this valley that we so often miss in our more busy lives, that I sometimes almost become suspicious about it. But then again, there was birdsong and other noises that I couldn’t really attribute to certain animals but that let us know that this place was very much inhabited by many winged and fourlegged creatures.

After crossing one of the many little streams that came down from the mountains, we came out of the forest and onto a verdant meadow. Sometimes, luckily quite often when I am hiking, I come onto certain places and something within me just clicks. Like love at first sight. I wouldn’t even know how to explain this feeling any further except that I just feel right. At peace. And I do believe nothing was more important on this day for Sam and me than to feel right and at peace.

The sky occasionally opened up, revealing some vibrant blue but equally as fast closed back up with grey clouds swirling, creating patterns almost like an watercolor painting. We couldn’t get enough of the jagged rock faces with their infinitely detailed topographic history. With their many shades of green and grey and their countless little cascades. And after the steep ascent from before, it felt particularly rewarding and restful to take our time and take in the atmosphere, even though the sky very much signaled the possibility of hard rainfall rather soon. And we did still have a little ways to go, so we gently picked up the pace again, finding comfort in knowing that we will pass all those beautiful places again on our way back.

We found ourselves within the “Grey Horns Hunting Reserve”, a sanctuary with over a century of history, an area where a multitude of animals and plants are living free of the interference of humans, meaning there is also no hunting allowed, which implied that there was the likelihood of spotting a lot of wild animals, such as chamois, deer or ibex as well as marmots.

There was a subtly appearing shift in temperature as we got closer and closer to the waterfalls and we took a stop to put on our rain gear. And after another ascent over a rocky path, we had made it to the arena. Clouds, almost reminiscent of smoke started to wrap themselves around the rocks and it was almost as if they left us a message: “You can come here, you can admire the waterfalls, but you can’t stay too long.” And ultimately I don’t know if it was really the clouds telling me that or the first raindrops hitting my forehead or if it was that sense of a place with a lot of energy; places where I already as a kid would feel that too long can be too much to handle energetically.

But for now we took our time, despite the increasing rain, to admire the waterfalls. Especially the 86 meter high Sässbachfall and the 81 meter high Piltschinabachfall as well as the with its 45 meters slightly less high Muttenbachfall. All of the waterfalls have together carved out an imposing rock arena and meet in the Gufelbach, along which we had walked since the beginning of our hike. There is no need to go closer to the waterfalls, I read, to feel the energy of the power spots at the feet of the falls; if one is receptive, it can be felt simply by standing in the center of the basin.

Water has long been of importance across religions, different cultures and in tales. Be it as a symbol for purity, cleansing, and transience or spiritual rebirth but also as something powerful, possibly even dangerous, deadly, devouring. But in contrast water is also often named the source of life – both biologically as well as symbolically. Life is possible where there is water. Water brings hope, perspective and possibilities. And as human beings, we begin our life floating in a watery environment, weightless.

More than anything else however I felt energy while standing there. I felt an almost electric tingling in my chest, I sensed my fingers vibrate and I felt the cold wet air on my face waking me up.

And within this magical spectacle of nature, an old ibex appeared across the water. With his long, curved and heavily-ridged horns, calmly and slowly making his way through the arena while plucking grass from the ground. At first we were not sure if he noticed us at all, pointing our cameras at him and almost holding our breath. But there was a moment where he turned his head so directly towards us, paused and looked at us before continuing his quest.

He had no rush, no fear no worries. He was home in his realm. Ibexes can live up to 18 years and I was deeply moved by the imagination that this older gentleman has had his peaceful routine here for many years already, accepting that occasionally he is sharing it not only with fellow ibexes and other wild animals but also humans that come to see and feel the magic of this place. Seeing animals in the wild still gives me goosebumps every time and I feel very honored to be in their presence.

The rain became increasingly persistent and we decided that it was time to turn back. One last look to the waterfalls, our eyes searching for our new friend who had in the meantime made his way up the mountainside and then we started the walk back down.

The raindrops trickled on our hoods and our steps created a grating sound on the path over the dark gravel. The ibex would not be the last resident we would encounter in the valley. We spotted several chamois on the alpine meadows above, their silhouettes against the grey sky almost looking like shadow puppets. And, having already suspected to hear some whistles earlier that promised their presence, we saw a speedy marmot Rushing across the riverbank on the other side of the river. Sam was delighted, a big enamoured smile on his face; and somehow it seemed as if this was his moment of returning home.

We passed all the beautiful spots again and somehow they still looked completely new. The light had changed, the focus shifted to different things; it was almost as if we were walking on a different path.

By the time we had arrived back in the village, the rain had stopped again and our faces dried. There were even some specs of blue sky. We had returned from the arena and it was as if a theater play had come to its satisfying conclusion. With our silent applause in the shape of excitedly beating hearts and serene smiles.

Click here to see this hike on SchweizMobil

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I said that nothing was more important than feeling right and at peace at that time. And as we had reached the arena and were surrounded by those powerful waterfalls, I realized that feeling right and at peace again also presupposed forgiving ourselves. And this in turn mostly meant to understand, that we had nothing to forgive ourselves for for what happened in Scotland, nor anyone or anything else. It was a painful wound inflicted by disappointment, doubt and remorse and it needed to heal. In its own time and in the right place. Scotland surely will be just one situation of many to come, where this realization will apply; where we are confronted by uncomfortable feelings that are nevertheless so indispensable on our life’s journey.

I don’t think it was a coincidence, that this was not a sunny dry day, but rather a walk under a rainy sky. Water is healing and cleansing. But not only that – it literally has the ability to reshape things; whole landscapes have been transformed by the force and persistence of water. And that shows us that few things on this planet and in life are permanent or – literally – set in stone. Transformation happens. Sooner or later. While that might frighten me at times, because certain things we don’t want to change, it also brings me great comfort. Especially in times of pain or hardship.

We can and we shall heal, transform and evolve and, much like the ibex’ horns we grow with the passing of time; and every experience is a ridge, a valley, a basin, a ripple on our own little planet. So that we can feel just right and find our connection again. And sense ourselves truly at home.

Route overview

Weisstannen to Waterfall Arena Batöni and back

Difficulty: T2 (Mountain Hiking Trail) Length: 8.5 km Duration: 3:10 h Ascent/Descent: 606m/606m

Some more useful facts about this hike

Best season: Late Spring, Summer and early Autumn.

Trail exposure: Minimal. Despite being a T2 trail, this grading comes from the steepness and not the exposure.

• There are no shops in Weisstannen to my knowledge but there are two hotels, “Hotel Gemse and “Hotel Alpenhof“, that offer the opportunity to stop in.
• The local museum offers an insight into the history of the valley and the villages as well as a vending machine with homemade products and souvenirs. Check the opening times as they close for the Winter season.